Grilled, cider-simmered sausages perfect for fall

I grew up in North Carolina, where sausage meant spicy sage breakfast meat and was sold mostly as bulk meat, then made into patties. Delicious, but it’s more of a side meat than a meal.

When I moved to Chicago, I was introduced to the wonderful world of German, Polish and Italian sausages. I quickly fell in love with sausages of all kinds, and though they are popular all year long, they are my favorite way to celebrate fall.

This recipe for hard-cider-soaked apple-sage sausages is perfect for a tailgate, football Sunday or fall festival. Just about everyone loves sausage, so it’s good for fans of all ages. If you’ve happened to go apple picking and wonder what to do with all the apples, here’s the dish.

Once I got the hang of the basic “brat fry,” I started experimenting with the less-traditional “gourmet” sausages widely available today. My favorite of the newfangled flavors is the chicken-apple sausage. This dish uses those for an uptown version of a Wisconsin brat fry.

For those of you — like me — who aren’t from Sheboygan, Wis., the brat fry is not about deep-fried sausages, but grilled (or pan-fried) and simmered sausages. The “brat” in wurst comes from the German verb “braten,” meaning to pan-fry or roast. Thus, the “brat fry.”

Hard-cider-soaked apple-sage sausages on hard or French rolls make perfect sandwiches for a football Sunday. (Associated Press)

The great thing about grilling the sausages first, then simmering them, is that you can grill the sausages the day before you plan to serve them. The simmering will add flavor and reheat the sausages at the same time. It’s also a great way to keep them warm and juicy if you are having a meal or a party where people are helping themselves and eating at different times.

You grill (or pan-fry) the sausages first to cook them and seal in the flavors. This may be opposite from the way you have done it, or seen it done, but it is the best way to maximize the flavor, especially with lean chicken sausages. If you simmer first and grill second, you will lose most of the flavor, as the fat in the sausage melts into the soaking liquid as the sausage boils. If you think about it, few of us like boiled meat.

You will concentrate the flavors in the sausage if you grill or pan-fry them from the start. Once the sausages are cooked, they will absorb the hard cider or other simmering liquid, enhancing the sausage, not taking away from it. Make sure to place the sausages in cold liquid and slowly bring them up to temperature as the liquid gets hot.

You can serve the sausages on a hard roll with caramelized onions and mustard. If you are a little more ambitious (and have loads of apples from that afternoon picking), make my apple-fennel sauerkraut. It looks just like kraut but has a tangy, slightly sweet apple-onion flavor that is the perfect complement to the chicken-apple sausages.

HARD-CIDER-SOAKED APPLE-SAGE SAUSAGES

If you can’t find the prepackaged “gourmet” sausages, use a sweet Italian sausage and add chunks of apples (about 2 apples) and 4 to 5 fresh sage leaves to the simmering liquid. Serve with frosty mugs of hard apple cider and homemade hash browns.

Start to finish: 45 minutes

Servings: 8

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 to 4 large sweet onions, sliced

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